Delhi sightseeing

I want to share with you what was one of the most difficult days since Im in India. On thursday 13 January I took a tourist bus and went for a sightseeing of Delhi.

I wake up early because Ive to meet the tourist bus in Ramakrishna metro station. It's still a bit far and it will take me 30 minutes or more to get there. Unfortunately I can't find the station on the map but according to their directions I should go to the center. I get out at New Delhi station but I don't see any bus. The time is running and I have to rush. I call Cyril and ask him to contact them. He then tells me that it is better to take a Rickshaw to Ramakrishna station (in a older post I refered Rickshaw as being a three wheeler automobile taxi, well in fact that name is for a three wheeler bike. Im still learning) and that is what I do. This time I don't bargain with the driver. Needless to say, Delhi streets in early morning are not very pleasant to see or smell but whatever! I need to get used. I finally get there and there's someone already waiting for me. We go to the bus. I couldn't belive in what I was seeing. The bus is really dirty and smells bad. I now understand why 200 ruppees for the whole trip. The guides?! Wow! I think it's better not comment...

The first stop is a hindu temple that I unfortunately don't remember the name. I have to remove my shoes and leave camera and phone in a safe. We only have 20 minutes to visit. The temple is beautifull and full of gods. As I enter Im approached by one of the guys that work there. He starts explaining which statue is which and seems wanting to guide me. Well... I think I will have to give him a tip later but I left my wallet in the safe. He's very kind and takes me to see the temple. Of course at the end he does a small pause as waiting for the tip but I apologize because I left my wallet outside. I felt it was not good but Iven't asked him for anything. I leave the place and run to the bus.

In the following, Im not sure of the correct order of events. We have visited so many places! I think we went to the presidential area where we could see the parliament and also the Indian Gate. Look at the pictures






Just for curiosity, you can see that I have something in my forehead. That's because I was blessed in the temple by a priest. As you can see there's a dense fog. If you add the polution it becomes really unconfortable. You can feel it, it's really unpleasant. My partners are super nice. They want to know everything about me and take photos. Again, I feel like a star. They help me with the indie and guide me.

The next stop is the house of Indira Ghandi. She was prime-minister long time ago and became famous for her strong personality and for the sense of unity she inspired. Some people loved her others hated her. She ended being assassinated after an etnic polemic about hindus and sikhs.

Im getting tired of walking, get into/out of bus and walking again. It's cold and the air is so polluted.

It's time for lunch. But before that we pass in by a big store where we can buy souvenirs, clothes, gold, and many other things. Of course I seem to be the main attraction. Sellers try to sell me anything they have and sometimes they are very annoying. Tired, I decide to wait outside. Finally I have sometime to rest and meet the other guys.

Now we move towards the restaurant. The bus takes us to a place that I would hardly describe as a restaurant. There are cows outside, it is crowded and cleanliness can be discussed. I look backwards in time and I start wishing never come here. I think my stomach won't survive this day. Im mentally devastated and I need guts. At the same time I know that is my mind that is causing this. Im in panic but Im aware of that and I start calming down. In fact it was not so bad... I only had to eat with my hands because I didn't trust in the forks I had in front of me. I just wanted to finish my lunch as quick as possible.

I have to say that's a difficult job we have to do to disrupt our minds from the ilusory perfection we see in rich countries. I can't imagine when I will be back to Paris. I won't stop laughing!!

In the afternoon we went to the Lotus temple, to the Mahatma Ghandi "grave" and some other places. I put quotation marks because his body was cremated, of course.





I leave you with a photo of Delhi. It's almost evening. I just wanted you to see how polluted the air is.



The way back home is a big punch in everything we think about humanity. I saw things that left me very sad, truly. Im still trying to get used to this new reality but I see different things each day. One thing is sure, I didn't know what was poverty.

Back to Delhi

After the Strings meeting in Puri I returned to Delhi. My idea was to spend a couple of days there just for sightseeing. Afterall, Delhi is the capital of India so this had to happen soon or later.

Before leaving Puri I had the opportunity to visit some other temples. The architecture is mostly the same everywhere. Nevertheless here are some photos.





As you can see in the first photo, more than my stylish standing, Im not wearing shoes. That's a requirement whenever you visit a hindu temple.
In the second photo you can see a priest having a bath. That water seemed so dirty!! as in any other place here.
The last photo was taken inside the temple. I can't tell which god is supposed to refer to but the priest has prayed for me. You were supposed to leave some money and sign to bookkeeping your offer. I left some ruppees. The priest said I will be very happy!!

I arrive in Delhi on tuesday evening, 11 of January. This time I go to Cyril's place by my own. I take the prepaid taxi. As in the last time the taxi driver doesn't know where Getanjali is and I start to think that I will have a long evening. He asks his friends and after some calls he figures it out. This time was much faster!

Cyril is not at home yet but he told me where the keys were.
He wants to join some friends for dinner and we do so. He tells me it is a very nice place but it is kind of hard to find. And in fact it is. He asks here and there. The place is really hidden but he was right about it. Very nice place and seems to be well known because it was crowded. The name of the place is Gunpowder. I think the name says a lot, we are going to have hot hot food. His friends were waiting and we meet. There are more foreigners here and that makes me feel more at home. Cyril orders some traditional food from his place, Keralla. I enjoyed it a lot. It was very good and spicy also.

We head back home. Some of his friends start to come to his place one after another. They are super cool. Most of them are part of a band called Higher Conscience. These guys love music and they are impressive with the instruments. The ambiance is just super cool, we have guitars and amazing players. And of course there's always some haxixe to relax our minds. Music, music and more music. It was a good soirée!!

The next day, the same guys and the same receipt. Music, tobacco, haxixe, guitar and more music. Super chilling environment.

Im starting to like Delhi!

Hindu massage on the beach

In the last day of the Strings meeting me and my friends we decided to get a massage session. After a week of "intensive" (;D) work I think we merited. Getting a massage here is very cheap and a common practice. The manager of the hotel was encharged to contact the people.

Just before lunch we head to the beach, which is just 5 minutes from the hotel. People are enjoying the water and after sometime the massagists arrive. They are two guys. This a all body massage. Im one of the firsts. He starts from the foot fingers and goes up to my hair and face. He uses some natural oil. I think its from coconut. The massage lasts for 30 minutes and its very pleasant. I was really needing a treatment like this.

Of course I became all oily but I feel lighter and go for a swim in indic waters. The waves are kind of agitated but its safe and the water feels so good.

I forgot to say that the massage only costed 200 rupees or 3 euros!! Good times here!

In the afternoon I had to go to the city to buy a new suitcase. Unfortunately in the flight from Delhi my suitcase got damaged and most probably it wouldn't resist the next flight.

The manager of the hotel arranged for a guy to drive me to the city. We go by motorbike. Im thinking how would I bring the suitcase. The ride is cool eventhough the traffic is chaotic. There's always people crossing the streets, cars horning and cows around. We arrive at the city and I just see chaos!! It is super crowded and smells really bad. I buy my suitcase and then we take a different way back home. We go through the village. The scenario could be shocking if I was not already used to it. That is, people living in very poor conditions, super dirty streets, many animals around and lots of cows. All this in a exoctic background permeated with temples.

It was a good ride. For me it seemed like a real 3d movie with special effects. This is India.

The Konark Temple and Kamasutra statues

The organization of the Indian strings meeting prepared some touristic events on sunday. People had two choices. A visit to the Konark temple, an hindu temple known for its erotic statues, or the Chilika lake, the Asia's largest water lake. Of course I went for the first choice.

The day starts as usual with seminars in the morning. For me it was the first time I had a seminar in a sunday's morning. It's not bad.

The temple is about one hour bus from our hotel and we depart right after lunch. When we arrive there's many people outside waiting to sell us something. Most of the people go for a nice coconut with straw and I do the same. Its so cheap and so good. In fact mine was a bit more expensive, I had to pay 15 rupees instead of 10. These coconuts are bigger and, at the end, we can eat the inside of the coconut. Its very good.

The entrance ticket costs 200 rupees for foreigners and 10 rupees for indians. We have a guide and is going to explain us the history of the place. In the meanwhile, Im approached by someone who's selling a kind of handmade postcard with hindu gods. I give a look. In fact its more interesting than Ive thought. Behind the gods drawings there are kamasutra figures! I like it and I ask for a price. He wants 450 rupees. Of course I was expecting such inflationated price and I say that's too expensive and I will think about it when I come back.



We are standing in front of the temple. The guide is explaining that the temple was built in the thirteenth century in honor of Surya, the sun god. The temple, basically, is a gigantic chariot. It has 24 big wheels and is drawn by 7 horses. Everything here is related to time. Each wheel symbolizes an hour and a horse a day. Each quarter of the day is represented by a god which stands in a specific position according to the sun light. The guide is also explaining that the temple was constructed with impressive bars of iron and it had a huge magnet on top of it. The magnet, he was saying, was supposed to support the structure of the temple. Curiously, it seems that it was the portugueses that removed the magnet long time ago because it was intefering with the compass. Ive laughed, "damn portuguese"!



The temple is guarded by two big lyons which are shown crushing an elephant. This elephant in turn holds a human. This is supposed to show the superiority of gods over human.
The temple is architecturally very impressive. It is decorated with inumerous small statues symbolizing gods, animals and great part of the society. But the big attraction is the kamasutra figures. The temple is a stone version of the old love book. We can see almost everything, every position. The guide was telling that it is thought that at that time there was a secret group of people charged of exploring the science of sex. All of this is in big contrast with the hindu society which is very conservative. How could these people construct a temple that glorifies sex and be at the same time so conservative? I couldn't understand. Some of these figures were representing prostitution, adultery, conjugal problems or even medical treatments. There is a statue of a woman being licked by a dog. The guide was saying that it was a way of treating gonorrhea. Well... it makes sense, I suppose :D.



In the way back to the exit, there is a another guy trying to sell me the same stuff the first guy was selling but this time it costs 200 rupees. I ask for 100 rupees but he replies that it's too low. During the conversation he tells me that he is the father of the other guy! If his son was selling at 450 and he's selling me at 200 why not 100, I say!! I insist in 100 rupees and he ends leaving me. After some time it's his son that approaches me. I tell him that I talked with his father and he was asking me for 200 so now Im asking for 100. He says he can't sell that price, that it was handmade, etc. Ive to say that he was not being annoying and seemed to be saying the truth. Ok lets make a deal, "I buy it for 150". He hesitates but still doesn't sell me. When we are approaching the bus he ends giving up. My friend João, who I know form Porto undergraduate times, takes advantage of my work :D! and also buys one. The guy is radiant and I seem to have saved his day! I really like that piece of work, very nice.

We head back home. In the bus we fluff about hindu mitology and start talking about religions and all that stuff. I come to know that aryan is a sanskrit word that means civilized. Very interesting!

Puri it's sea, beach and sun

I left Delhi in the afternoon to Bubhaneswar, the capital of Orissa state. Im going to participate in the Indian Strings Meeting that will hold in Puri. This meeting will join most of the indian string theorists and also leading international researchers. I will stay there for a week and I think I will have fun!

When I arrive at the airport there's already someone waiting for me. He is from the organization and he's job is to drive me to Puri which is about 100Km from Bubhaneswar. It is late evening and the road is dark. The way this guy drives is just impressive. Im sure for him is just normal and safe driving but what I see seems like Schumacher. Mutiple car overtakings, high speed cuting curves, impressive maneuvers. I think these people are so used to a chaotic traffic that they develop amazing abilities. I wouldn't survive even a second driving here. After an hour I arrive to my hotel in Puri. This is a touristic hotel. My room is big, comfortable and has a big bed.


Every morning I wake up with the sun entering in my room through the window and I love that. It urges me to get up. I really like the sun. I have seminars everyday from 9h30 to 17h30 and I don't have so much time to enjoy the good weather and the beach but I like the environment. There are lots of people discussing physics. I can't forget that Im here for work but it's difficult when you have sun and beach.


For me its summer. Im wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I think its about 25ºC. But for locals its winter. There's people wearing jackets, scarfs and even this thing for the ears. I find it really funny! Everybody is super nice. They are always smiling and shaking their heads. They call me "Sir" and I feel flattered. Unfortunately just some people understand english and sometimes is difficult to comunicate. I have to repeat so many times!

Food is very good! Lunch and dinner are expected with anxiety! (Im exagerating a bit here...) The basics are rice, naan (the flat thin bread), dal (some kind of sauce that we put over the rice), some cheese (its more soft than usual european one), some potatos mixed with vegetables, then you can have meat, fish or other veg component. Most of indian people eat with their hands. This is something I certainly can't do. Fingers full of oil and rice its not for me. Most europeans would find that bad manners but I think is as good as using a fork and a knife if you wash your hands before and after. I really don't care about that. I feel that Im getting fat everyday that passes :D.


After lunch I go for a walk on the beach. This time I skip some lectures that I find boring. The water is warm and the sun is not as strong as I thought, but its strong enough for me. There are many people on the beach. Its seems there is a religious festival going on. I forgot to say that Puri is a well known religious destination. There are many hindu temples here and lots of people come to pray. Of course, in India streets are always very agitated, market here and there, you can buy fruits, sweets, tea, clothes, souvenirs, etc.



People look at me with difference. They smile and I smile too. Some start talking with me asking me where I come from and what Im doing in Puri. There's one guy that wants me to take a photo with him and his sisters (I think they were his sisters). Im like a star here and everyone wants to take a photo with me. Its so funny. There are also camels on the beach. If you want you can pay and go for a ride.


On the beach there are these guys that call themselves lifeguards. They look very funny. They are carrying a Smurd kinf of hat where is written "Life guard" and also some lifebuoys. You have to pay 40 rupees (say 80 cents) for watching you. I take some pictures with them.



I haven't tell you but here cows are the queens. It was in Delhi too but here definitely there are more. They peacefully walk around eating here and there and they don't care about cars or anything. Nobody dares to disturb them. I walk through the streets and there are many cows. For me its strange and I feel some fear but quickly it dissipates. There are also many dogs and ,as cows, they don't care about you.

3 January 2011, first day in Delhi

Flight AI 142 to Delhi, 2 January 2011

I had a nice flight but I have to say that I had better before. The plane belonged to Indian Airlines. For met his was the first contact with india. Painted mostly with warm reds and yellows with a background of brown, I was already feeling the heat and the sun of India.

I arrive in Delhi at 10h30 on the third of January. Cyril was supposed to be waiting for me at the airport. He is a friend of Disha, who I met in Paris. She's from Mumbai and she's very cool. Unfortunately Cyril is not at airport and I try to reach him by phone. "Damn", he's not answering. Outside of the airport there's a different world waiting for me and I decide to wait inside. Im feeling kind of stressed with the situation but fortunately he calls me back. He was sleeping and had forgotten that I will be arriving today. He rushes to the airport. After an hour or so we meet. We buy a prepaid taxi because this is what you have to do when you are in India, otherwise the taxi driver will, most probably, try to cheat you. We head to the taxi, "Geetanjali, please!". That's the name of the place where he lives. Unfortunately the driver doesn't know where is place and we end up loosing so much time to arrive. The first impression of Delhi's streets is desolating. Too much crowded, noise, polution, a chaos! Im feeling weird. The jetleg doesnt help and what I see infinitely contrasts with Paris. I just think "shit place, what Im going to do here?". Somehow I manage to peace my mind and I feel ok.

After a long and messy ride we finally arrive at Geetanjali. He lives in a nice residence area that contrasts with the rest of the city. When I see his apartment my mind enters in shock. I couldn't believe in the scenario I see. He had just moved to this new place. His apartment is almost empty. He doesnt have a bed, chairs, the toilet is dirty and water sometimes flows. Again, interestingly, I start to calm down and chill. Cyril is super cool. He plays guitar and he's kind of impressive. We talk for a bit and then we go for lunch. He has a nice terrace and we spend part of the afternoon there, chilling, drinking and smoking. He tells me about a big market in the center of Delhi where you can find very cheap stuff. Im interested because I wanted to buy a mobile phone and we decide to go.


In the street he waves to the bus driver and the bus slows down. We have to run and jump into bus while it's moving and we do it. I just laugh!! This is so crazy. This happened because, first, we were not at the bus stop and second, and more important, because we are in India! We get out at metro station and we head to the center. It is evening and there is a dense smog that makes me feel so unconfortable. This is usual in Delhi. Its so polluted. The sky is always very dirty.

The metro is very good, I mean it is very proper but it gets very crowed as we approch the station "Rajiv Chowk", one of the hearts of Delhi. We walk to Palika Bazar. This is a huge underground market, it is super dirty and smells bad. As I walk people look at me as if I was painted with gold and try to sell me anything they have. I can't stare at anything otherwise they will jump on me. Im getting annoyed with this. I end up buying a mobile phone after some bargain and we went out. Right now I feel so hungry and tired and we decide to go for dinner. We go to a nice restaurant. The food was great. Yes, indian food is very good. It's such a cocktail of spices.


Wanting to rest we head back home. Cyril deals a ride with the "Rickshaw" driver. Rickshaw is three wheeler taxi and its very cheap. I think we have done like 10Kms in the way back home for just 50 rupees, this is like an euro!!

Next day I left to the airport. I was leaving to Puri in Orissa state.

Namaste!

Incredible India. This is the title Ive chosen for this blog. Its one of the first things we see in publicity placards when we arrive in India. I think the idea is to exult the marvells of India. Here I want to show you what I find incredible, not just the good things but also the less pleasant.

On the second of january I left Paris towards Delhi in India. Im supposed to stay here for a couple of months. I will visit some important physics institutes as HRI in Allahabad or TIFR in Mumbai. In these places I will have the opportunity to work with some of the most important indian physicists, which are also international leading researchers in string theory. If things go well, I mean, if can adapt to this new world that is India, Ill be back by May.